I did this on my '05, so I know for sure it will work for '04-'06 models. I'm reasonably sure '07+ models haven't changed their wiring, so this *should* work for those years as well.
Instructions are my own modified version of ones I found on another forum. Detail photos were unceremoniously ganked from said instructions, so credit goes to whoever wrote the original instructions. I've long since lost where I found these, so....thanks to the guy who took these, whoever you are.
Tools you need:
- wire cutter
- wire stripper
- soldering iron/solder
- screwdrivers & allen wrenches to get your inner fairings off
Supplies you need:
- 14-gauge wire (I used some 12V primary wire I picked up at an automotive shop)
- female flag quick disconnect connector (Radio Shack part #64-3046)
- electrical tape
Optional supplies (depends on how you decide to do this):
- crimp-on snap connectors (Radio Shack part #64-3086)
- split-loom tubing (I personally didn't end up using this, but I bought some -- Radio Shack part #278-1624A)
- zip ties
Things to decide before you begin:
- Where you're going to connect the wire
- How you're going to route the wire
As for how to route it, you have several options here as well. You can tape it down to the existing headlamp wires, run it on its own across to the triple tree, run it along the fairing, etc. I ran it to the left along the fairing, through the wire loom on the left side of the fairing, then across to my connection point. To keep things fully disconnect-able, I added one of the snap connectors to the wire I ran so I can still remove the fairing. The wire loom comes in handy if you're going to splice in near the handgrip to easily bundle all those wires coming down there, since you have to cut back the plastic sleeve those wires are currently housed inside of to get to the splice point.
How it's done:
1. Take off your inner fairings. You'll need the room to work. In order to do this, you'll also need to disconnect your headlights. Don't bother plugging them back in -- you'll need them off.
2. Check to make sure the flag connector will fit over the blades of your H4 (right) headlamp. I had to shove a flathead screwdriver into one of mine to expand it a little so it would fit.
3. Strip the end of the 14-gauge wire and crimp it down in the top of the flag connector.
4. Pop open the back of the connector for your H4 (right) headlamp. It's essentially just a plastic flap that should flip up. Once that's open, you should have an empty slot where you can slide the connector and attached wire down into it. You may want to put some electrical tape around the top of it so it fits in the connector a bit more snugly. Pay attention to how you put it in there -- one side has a small opening where the wire will go and not be pinched when you flip the cover back down.
Flip the cover back down when you're done.
5. Route the new wire based on the decision you made as to where you're connecting it.
6. Cut into the wire sleeve at the point you selected and find the green wire with orange dots. You won't have a ton of slack to work with, but it should be enough. Cut that wire, strip it, and splice/solder in your new wire from your headlamp. Throw some electrical tape on it, and drop the wire loom on if you want to. I didn't use the loom, but rather used some additional electrical tape to seal up the slice I made in the wire sleeve.
Here's an example of splicing near the grip and using the loom:
If you decided to trace the wire back under the tank and splice in there....good luck. I decided it was way more work than it was worth.
Once you have it wired up, connect the headlamps and give it a whirl. This method of doing this mod will keep the low beam on for both lights, and switch only your right headlamp to high beam when you turn on your brights (left side stays on low). There are other methods that leave your right side low beam on all the time, even when you kick your high beam on, which is harder on the bulb and your already-challenged electrical system.
Reattach your bodywork and you're ready to roll.
This mod *does* put some additional load onto the already slightly inadequate electrical system the FZ6 has, but I've experienced no ill effects as a result.